A week in Malta

Saturday

We flew in to Malta on a warm March evening, and woke early in Valetta on Saturday, eager to start some exploring. It was sunny and mid-20s, with a strong breeze howling across the harbour. And there was a big list of sights to see.

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We made our way down the peninsula towards our first port of call: Fort St Elmo. As you can see, there are elements of fortifications everywhere you look in Malta.
malta map
Valetta is the central peninsula, and Fort St Elmo is on its bottom end, circled. It guarded the access to both the Grand Harbour on the left and Marsamxett on the right.
1565
Malta's moment in history was the Great Siege by the attacking Ottomans in 1565. It was a bastion of Christendom against the Turks. The defence relied on the strength of the fortifications, the Knights of Malta and the Maltese people themselves.

Fort St Elmo fell to the Turks after a heroic defence. The survivor knights were beheaded and their bodies floated across the harbour on crosses. But the stubborn defence cost the Turks time, and led to the ultimate failure of their attack.

It was a great fort to wander around, and there were many well presented displays in the old buildings. We got out just as the tour busses were arriving…

…and wandered back into Valetta to have a look at a very impressive cathedral, St Johns. Churches can become monotonous in Europe, but this one was really worth seeing.

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Cathedral interior showing the breathtaking decoration. You walk on the tombs of old knights.

Sunday

It was an action packed day to start our tour. St Elmo and the Cathedral were amazing sights that echoed the history of Malta and its place as a bastion in the defence of Europe. But there was plenty more to inspect.

On Sunday, we headed inland to check out the ancient capital, Mdina. Also a fortress!

mdina
Beautifully preserved medieval fortress of Mdina. Sited far from the coast as a defence against raiders who plundered the coastal areas of the Mediterranean for centuries.

Mdina and neighbouring Rabat were absolute treats to walk around. Stunning views over fields green with young wheat, vineyards and groves of olives.

We were lucky enough to catch the local brass band and a grand procession through the narrow lanes of Rabat for St Josephs Day.

Back in Valetta that evening we found the perfect place for sundowners; Upper and Lower Barakka Gardens.

barakat gardens
The sunset from Lower Barakka Gardens watching over the harbour mouth.
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The gun platform at Upper Barakka Gardens looking over to Fort St Angelo.

Monday

It dawned another cracking Malta day; warm but not too hot, and still windy. We caught the ferry for the short ride across to Birgu, the peninsula facing Valetta.

It had been the site of Castrum Maris; a harbour castle variously attributed to the Arabs, Normans, Angevins and Aragonese. In any case , it formed the basis for the most important of the Knights fortresses, Fort St Angelo. From Birgu, you enjoyed a brilliant view across the narrow Grand Harbour back towards Valetta.

ft st angelo
Fortress of Birgu; St Angelo
diorama
A diorama in the Maritime Museum showing The Assault on the Spur of Senglea during the Great Siege. Senglea supported Birgu, and if this attack had succeeded, it may have been the end for Malta and the Knights. But they held on...just.

Tuesday

It was still long before the busy summer tourist season, but Malta (like anywhere on the Med) gets busy fast. Luckily there were no cruise liners, but crowds could still build up, even in March. That was why Birgu was a pleasant contrast to Valetta.

For our next day of exploring we jumped aboard one of the hop-on, hop-off island bus routes, and took in some very interesting landscapes cruising through the countryside. Young wheat, dry stone walls, a wild windswept coastline and pre-Bronze Age ruins…

 

Hamriga; one of the coastal watchtowers to warn of the approach of raiders.

Wednesday

We decided to explore the gardens around Valetta on Wednesday morning. While they are a little limited, the gave same great outlooks over the harbours on both sides of Valetta.

Then, after lunch at Lower Barakka Gardens, we stepped into the bygone opulence and shameless militaria of the former Grand Masters Palace, now the seat of the president of the republic.

And we caught the 4 pm firing of the cannons from the Saluting Battery at the Upper Barakka Gardens, which always drew large crowds.

Thursday

Malta consists of three islands; the main island, Gozo, and tiny Comino, lying between the two. Comino was reputed to be good for a hike, so we took the fast ferry to Gozo, then a small one to the famous and picturesque Blue Lagoon, gateway to Comino.

Still a bit cold for a dip, for me anyway (only 17 degrees!) but there were some hardy souls partaking.

And the island also had two forts! And some wonderful scenery away from the crowds.

The Blue Lagoon. Supposed to be chaos in summer!

Friday

Last day. We had been busy with touring and exploring, and lots of walking, but the sights had been absolutely great. Dripping with history from Phoenician galleys to Luftwaffe divebombers. The food was up to scratch, the beer cold, there was some decent local wine, and we were blessed with the weather.

We even decided we had missed a few sights, and have to come back. Spring was a good time. Maybe autumn too.

We had a last stroll around, and enjoyed a final sundowner at Lower Barakka.

Farewell Malta. You put on a pretty fine show.
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