Nailaka is a tiny island, partially joined by a coral spit to larger Run Island in the Banda Islands. The distant Gunung Api volcano can be seen in the background.
The Banda Islands are spectacular tropical gems, but remote and difficult to reach. Irregular flights, fast ferries or slower liners all start from Ambon, which is itself quite a way off the beaten track. From Banda it’s a few hours by local boat out to first Ai Island and then Run and Nailaka.
Dive boats often head west to Nailaka from Banda because of its spectacular drop-offs, colourful coral reefs and abundance of marine life. It is an absolute diver’s paradise.
And the little island has some history as well. At one time, Run was the base of irrepressible Englishman Nathaniel Courthope (see Giles Milton’s Nathaniel’s Nutmeg) whose men built a small fort on the islet, christening it Fort Defence. When Courthope died running the Dutch blockade of Run Island, the survivors abandoned both Run and Nailaka, and the Dutch took over.
Finally, in the horse-trading that accompanied the end of another of the interminable Anglo-Dutch Wars, in 1667 the handover of Run to the Dutch was formalised by the grant of sovereignty over a swampy island of fur traders harassed by Indian tribes in North America; Manhattan. Yes, that Manhattan. Swapped. Manhattan for Run. Bystanders at the time thought the Dutch had got by far the better deal!